Fukusui (in Japanese: 渓流の宿 福水 ) is an idyllic traditional Japanese inn (ryokan) nestled in the relatively central-southeast of Chiba prefecture. This ryokan has a special place in our hearts as it was one of the first places where we engaged and aimed to capture the ryokan and onsen in detail.
We were very fortunate as the manager of Fukusui (in Japanese they are called “Okami” – lady of the inn) was incredibly welcoming and kind.
That type of hospitality and care extended even outside the usual treatment given to normal guests. Therefore, it would be only fitting for the first feature post to be about Fukusui.
Reception, Detailing & Hospitality
This ryokan truly ticks all the boxes! It is well kept, cozy and has plenty of interesting design elements to marvel at.
Since it is not very small nor particularly large place it feels just right for a relatively private experience. The entrance and lobby area has quite few stunning design elements (the wooden centrepiece in the lobby and samurai outfit on a stand).
The general feel of the ryokan felt modern but all the traditional design elements what make ryokan a ryokan were present.
Kaiseki Dinner and Breakfast
Usually we try to go for the kaiseki (Japanese traditional inn dinner) and breakfast if our budget and travel times allow for it. Sometimes we have early plans to go somewhere and no time for breakfast (usually they give options between 7-9AM, with 8AM being the standard for us).
Likewise, sometimes we just get to the inn at sundown, around 6-9PM.. though kaiseki usually starts around 6PM (different places have slightly different times as well and usually can choose from a few timeslots when you do the check-in).
At Fukusui the food was exceptional! I find it difficult to come across kaiseki that is not good (even more lower end places usually have fairly good food). But, instead of waxing poetic about the meals, we let the images speak for themselves, providing a visual feast of our table’s delights.
Onsen – Embracing the Warmth
The whole experience of a ryokan is to relax and wind down, and onsen (hot spring) is the central part of it. In our website you can find more about what makes up onsen water and where to find different types of water qualities.
At Fukusui, the main water quality type is classified as “Carbonated spring”, with bathing temperatures around 40.5-42 degrees. This temperature range is the most standard and very comfortable (though as always depending on your condition, 10 minute baths are the best). Personally, we really enjoy 5-10 minute dips and then sitting around with feet in the water a little to cool down and then dip back in again.
There are no mixed public baths, though there is (was) an option for private bath (also known as “family bath”). Although the public ones for men and women looked amazing and very cozy (one of them is also outdoor one). Usually ryokans have a time schedule when they switch the baths between men and women, so all guests can enjoy different onsen.
Surrounding Areas
The area were Fukusui is nestled is very silent and out in nowhere, which is perfect for those who would like to be surrounded by the quiet whispers of the nature. The rooms also come with cozy views of the well-kept garden area and facing the river stream and cliff that are next to the property and really invite the curious spirits to explore a bit more.
During our visit, we also gave a looksie at the nearby town “Nakano”, which is a small but cozy town for a brief stroll. Especially the train station looked really interesting with some yesteryear’s trains coming in and out (Kazusa-Nakano Station).
Aside from that, with just a 20-minute drive you can get to the Nōmizo Waterfall (濃溝の滝). This place has become sort of a tourist spot for its beautiful nature views. Many popular photos of this are during the autumn season, though unfortunately we have not had the chance to go there during autumn yet.. though one day for sure.
General Insights:
Website: fukusui.com
Address: 618 Kotadai, Otaki, Isumi District, Chiba 298-0265, Japan
Price range: “Standard plan” with a room for 2 people and kaiseki dinner is around 20 000 yen.
Note on opening: It looks like from November 2023 they closed for renovations and will reopen again November 2024. Thus, once they do open again we reckon some of the info presented here has changed (though imagine from quality-wise, only for the better).
Access Information:
Car: By far the easiest way and recommended way if possible. That is because Fukusui is relatively remote and most of the other activities and sights (mostly outdoors related) are more easily accessible by car.
Car duration (from Tokyo): ~1 – 1.5 hours (depending on traffic could be longer as well)
Public Transport: It’s a mix of trains and busses. Likely the best end stop is at the “Kazusa-Nakano” train station. Usually ryokans also offer an option for a pickup at the nearby station so always a good option to send a message beforehand if that is possible.
Public Transport duration (from Tokyo station): 2.5-4 hours.